Category Archives: Cameras

How-To: Learning to fly a quad copter

Thinking of flying a quad copter but you have no experience? And you need to teach yourself?

My recommendation, and that of others, is to start with an inexpensive radio controlled toy. You will crash. You will break stuff. And fixing an inexpensive RC toy costs a lot less than a $1,000 or $4,000 multi-copter.

I have the Hubsan X4 with its integrated 720p video camera. They are available at Amazon:


The camera is okay but its not anything fantastic. It’s a fun to have feature but if your goal is learning to fly, you can get a version without the camera for about half the price:

I also recommend a “crash pack” or at least an additional set of blades, plus spare batteries:

I have this set of 5 extra batteries and they work just fine. Keep in mind that on a small quad copter like this, your battery life may be only 5-8 minutes, depending on whether the camera is turned on, the LED lights are turned on, or if you have the rotor protection ring installed (adds weight). You will be changing batteries frequently.
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In spite of your best intentions, you will hit stuff and a blade or two will go flying and may become very hard to find.  I once hit the ground hard out in front the house and one of the blades hit a brick and just vanished. I had the video camera going at the time and watched that frame by frame in hopes I’d spot the blade, but didn’t. Not until a week later did I find it about 25 feet away.  Order a set of extra blades.

I need to put together a tutorial on setting up and configuring the Hubsan as the instruction booklet was not very clear to me – and I even have a pilot’s license:)

The key is that you need to calibrate the control system so that everything is balanced. This basically means setting the “trim” tabs for roll, pitch and yaw. And you do that by briefly powering up on grass or indoor carpet (if indoors USE THE BLADE PROTECTOR that is hidden underneath the plastic packaging in the box).

If the quadcopter drifts sideways or forwards or back, you’ll need to adjust the trim tabs on the flight controller. There is no easy way to describe this in words – I really need to make a tutorial video.  Once you figure out how to do this, the process is simple. And the goal is that the quadcopter will roughly hover and drift very slowly once it is trimmed up properly.

After that, start practicing. It took me many flights to reach a point where I could stationary hover and maintain altitude. And then more practice flights to learn to maneuver. And that was all done in the living room. Then more practice outdoors in the yard.

ALWAYs move the controls slowly. Don’t let the aircraft get away from you. If you feel you are about to crash and perhaps fly off, reduce the throttle and land. Get yourself re-oriented and start over.

I really need to make a tutorial video to explain this!

How to: Shooting landscapes in hyperstereo 3D

I like photographing landscapes in hyperstereo 3D because such photos often reveal hidden depth that we cannot see with our eyes or detect with our brain. This gives us an entirely new perspective on a scene.

My wife jokes that 3D photographers can take photographs with depth at any time, unlike 2D “flat photographers” who must wait around for the sun angle to give shadow contrast for enhancing depth features 🙂

When I take hyperstereo 3D, I almost always use a single camera. I start at the left most position and then take photos as I move the camera to the right. The picture of Mt St Helens was taken as a series of about 7 shots over about 70 feet of distance. I took a photo, walked to my right and took another photo. I did not have a good sense of the spacing that would be needed – and what the impact of close in subjects would have on the depth. So I just took many different lens spacings and chose the best later, when sitting at the computer.

For Mt St Helens, I knew I would need very wide lens spacing, which is why I took photos at 10 feet (over 3 meter) intervals. For closer subjects, I might only move the camera 1 foot (1/3d meter) between shots.

To keep the camera roughly aligned, I set the camera to display a grid overlay on the viewfinder. I position the crosshairs of the grid on a specific, very distant feature. As I move the camera, I keep the crosshairs pointed at that distant feature. In the case of the Mt St Helens volcano, which is many miles away, I use a corner of one of the snow fields as my alignment target.

If you think about how 3D works, if I was using a pair of precisely aligned cameras, each pointed off into the distance, at some point a long ways out there, the two cameras are effectively pointed at the same subject – we can’t distinguish, says, 6 inches of lens spacing, on a subject a few miles away!  For really distant subjects, a lens spacing measured in feet is still indistinguishable (in a practical sense).

After shooting, the photos are aligned and processed in Stereo PhotoMaker.

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