This is a wide stereoscopic base 3D photo taken using a single Canon SX 1 IS camera in automatic mode/jpeg output. The shot was taken by snapping the left image and the moving the camera to the right – I did not record how far I moved. However, far enough! As you can see with your red/cyan glasses on, this photo shows depth effects well into the distance, especially along the far side of the river.
Click on the image for full size.
3D Photo organizer, online 3D photo galleries, 3D editing software, upload capabilities: 3D Stereo Images and Photos | Phereo.
Software to process 3D images – free version (with watermarked Phereo logo on images) and Pro version ($24.99).
Phereo is apparently based in Moscow, Russia.
There are some good ideas here – 3D editing, photo albums, and upload all in one, for example. But am not sure I get their online video hosting business (fee-based) and how is it different than hosting sites like Youtube’s 3D support?
And gaming and mp3 player markets too: Smartphones crushing point-and-shoot camera market – Livemint.
The branch at upper left really sticks out at you!
This is a single camera 3D image taken using a Canon SX 1 IS, shooting separate left and right images and then combining them with Stereo Photo Maker.
This image was intended to feature the branch poking out at you! Go ahead – click on the image for full size! Red/Cyan glasses needed to see this stereoscopic anaglyph photo in 3D.
See below for info on how to take a photo like this.
Taking 3D Photos With One Camera
I like taking 3D photos with one camera – any stationary subject will work in 3D shots.
To take a picture like this, I always shoot the left image first, move the camera a little to the right, and then take the right image photo.
To keep the camera lined up, I prop the camera on my left hand. Hold your left hand in front you and point your index finger to your right and point your thumb straight up. (I know, I need a photo of this!)
I take the shot and then, using my right hand, slide the camera along my hand/index finger over to the right. Using my left hand as a support works as a camera guide, helping to keep the camera level and moved in a line to the right.
How far to move to the right? That depends on how far the subject is to your camera! In 3D, the interaxial distance (also known as interocular distance) is critical to your 3D images. One rule-of-thumb is that the subject should be at least 30 times the distance of the left and right lens, away from your camera. For a lens spacing of one inch, the subject should be at least 30 inches away using that rule (rules are also meant to be broken).
For close subjects, I may move the camera 1/4 to 1/2″, as in the photo above. For subjects further away from the camera, I may move over 3 inches, take a photo, and then perhaps move over another 3 inches and take another photo. Later, I can see which spacing works best – 3 inches or 6 inches. Sometimes I take several photos like this – moving to the right after each shot.
If your camera has a “macro” wide angle feature, you can shoot 3D photos of very small objects – literally taking the camera down to within inches of the subject – and moving the camera the tiniest amount to the right. Once you master “macro” 3D, a whole new world of subjects open up to you – and provide unique picture taking opportunities.
While our own eyes are about 2 1/2″ apart, we can see depth closer than that implies (think 3″ x 30 or 90″!) That’s because our eyes can point inwards towards each other to converge on the close subject. But eventually, as we get down really close, not even that will help and we cannot really see 3D. But your camera can! And that’s why macro 3D photography creates opportunities for many fascinating subjects that your eyes cannot see.
Well, there goes the medium: Modi uses 3D telecast to address audiences in four cities | Business Standard in India.